RAILWAY CONNECTIONS 



WITH 

LAKE SUPERIOR. 



LETTER 



TO THE 



HON. TRUMAN SMITH. 



CLEVELAND: 

KARRIS & FAIRBANKS, PRINTERS, HERALD OFFICE, BANK ST. 

1 S 5 3 . 



?5 
/YK2- 



RAILWAY CONNECTIONS WITH LAKE SUPERIOR. 



Washington City, June 1st, 1853. 
Charles Whittlesey, Esq., 

Dear Sir : Being deeply impressed with the importance ot 
a rail road communication between Lake Superior and the 
countiy below, not only to the full development of the mineral 
resources of that wonderful region, but also to the prosperity 
of the whole country, you will greatly oblige me by communi- 
cating any information you may have touching the most desi- 
rable route for such a communication, and the benefits likely 
to result, both to the United States, and to the States bordering 
on the Lakes from opening the same. It is very probable that 
the delegations in Congress from the State of Michigan, both 
in the Senate and House of Representatives, will bring up this 
subject at the approaching session. It is eminently fit and 
proper they should lead in the movement, and in such case I 
shall lend them my cordial support. However this may be, 
your large experience in the exploration, and extensive infor- 
mation touching the value of our mineral resources in that 
quarter, cannot fail to render any exposition of your opinions 
and views highly acceptable to your friends in Congress, and 
should you see fit to favor me with such an expression, I shall 
take pleasure in using it for the common advantage. 
With sentiments of high respect, 

I am truly and faithfully yours, 

TRUMAN SMITH. 



Eagle Biver, Sept. 20, 1853. 
Hon. Truman Smith, 

Washington, D. C: 

Dear Sir : I have been unable sooner to comply with your 
request of June last, to furnish you some facts relative to the 
project for a railway from Chicago or Detroit to Lake Supe- 
rior. 

From Detroit, a continuous railway route must of necessity 
pass around the south bend of Lake Michigan, but lines are 
projected that are more direct, leaving a gap to be passed in 
boats, but at what points on either coast such lines should ter- 
minate, I do not profess to know. 

Such a route might take a northerly direction from Detroit 
towards the point of the Lower Peninsula, and thence north- 
westerly through the iron region to the Anse, the Ontonagon, 
and Keweena Point. 

Or it might bear north-westerly to Grand Travers Bay, and 
crossing by steam to Bay De Noquet, continue on the same 
course to the Anse. 

The lands between the settlements in the new counties along 
the last named line are said to be good through the Lower Pen- 
insula, but it is reported to be different with the first named 
line. 

In the Upper Peninsula, from Mackinac, from Point au 
Chene, Payment Point or Seul Choix to the iron region, the 
lands are in general not valuable. 

As my conclusions are more favorable to a western route, 
passing beyond the head of Green Bay, I have examined it 
more attentively than any other. 

From the Lower Peninsula, a route has been proposed, reach- 
ing Lake Michigan opposite Manitowac or Sheboygan, and 
thence to Navarino. If this project to reach the copper re- 
gion is effected, the line must make westing enough to pass the 
Anse Keweena, which is in the meridian of Lakes Winnebago 
and Shawanoe. 

It is from Lake Winnebago or Lake Shawanoe that all west- 
ern routes may be said to be common, and from Chicago to 
Oshkosh, on Lake Winnebago, a road is already under con- 
struction. 



The materials for such a notice as the route deserves are not. 
even now at my command. Last winter, meetings of the 
citizens connected with the mines of Point Keweena, and also 
those of the Ontonagon district, were held, and committees 
appointed to obtain and publish all the information that was 
accessible. 

The gentlemen of those committees, like all business men 
here, have been too much occupied by their own affairs to col- 
lect and arrange the necessary facts. 

In the absence of their reports, and with a view to attract 
attention to the subject, and also to elicit farther information, I 
take the liberty to print the observations I have intended for 
you, and to distribute the same at once. 

Your enquiry relates principally to the following points : 

1st. To the nature of the country, in reference to the con- 
struction of a railroad. 

2d. To the several proposed routes for a land communication 
with Lake Superior, having in view a probable connection of 
the Upper Mississippi with Lake Superior. 

3d. To the value and resources of the Lake Superior region, 
particularly its western portions. 

4th. The comparative value of the public lands about the 
sources of the Menominee, the Wolf, the Wisconsin, and the 
Ontonagon Rivers, with and without a railway communication 
through them. 

These queries embrace so wide a field, that it is only by 
great brevity and condensation that they can be embraced in a 
single letter, or even an essay. 

I begin my reply with the interrogatory that carries the 
greatest practical consequences, that is, the last or fourth 
query. 

Within the State of Michigan, the lands have all been sur- 
veyed, and my knowledge of the tract lying south of the min- 
eral-bearing range [whereon the Minesota, National, Forest, 
Norwich and other mines are situated.] is derived from conver- 
sations with the deputy surveyors who did the field work, and 
from my own observations. 

I am indebted to Wm. A. Burt, Esq., who ran the town* 
ship lines, and to Mr. Algernon Merriwether, who subdivi- 



6 

dod much of the district south to the boundary of Michigan. 
Oapt. Cram, Dr. Houghton, and Mr. S. W. Hill passed 
through the region on the survey of the boundary in 1840-41. 
To the south of the line between Michigan and Wisconsin 
the country is not surveyed till you descend the Menominee, 
the Wolf and the Wisconsin Eivers about half their length, 
and for that portion of the tract about the sources of those 
streams we have less information. 

A very intelligent Indian trader by the name of Brown gave 
me a map and description of the part between the Wolf Kiver 
and the Wisconsin, in 1850, during which year I passed through 
a considerable portion of the tract between the Wolf and the 
Menominee Eivers. The settled portions of Wisconsin now 
reach to the Falls of Wolf Kiver, a few miles above Lake 
Shawanoe, and those of Michigan extend from Lake Superior 
to the Forks of the Ontonagon. 

It is of the intermediate and unsettled portion only that it is 
necessary to speak, and I give you above the sources of my 
information. 1 have also an Indian map or sketch of the re- 
gion about Lake Yieux Desert, and the West Fork of the On- 
tonagon. 

So far as I know, and as has been represented by all author- 
ities, the region is capable of occupation, if it could be approach- 
ed with reasonable facility. 

It is evident that there is no natural communication with it 
by water, for all the rivers that head there, whether of Lake 
Superior, Lake Michigan, or the Mississippi, have numerous 
and high falls, and are notorious for rapids and chutes. 

The rapids of the Ontonagon begin within ten miles of the 
Lake, and those of the Menominee within a few miles. Wolf 
Eiver is now made accessible from Lake Winnebago by means 
of the improvement of the Fox Eiver ; but it is only in high 
w T ater and for small boats that Lake Shawanoe can be reached. 
The Wisconsin is navigable but a short distance above the 
Winnebago portage. It is only for bark canoes that can be car- 
ried around the frequent falls of all these streams, that they 
are navigable. 

The tract watered by the branches of the Ontonagon is the 
largest body of agricultural land on the waters of Lake Supe- 
rior, 



The space around Lake Vieux Desert is represented as highly 
valuable for the same purpose. That between the Wolf and 
the Menominee Rivers is less so, but contains much good land. 
The whole includes about 10,000 square miles, without any 
reliable means of w r ater communication. 

It will be asked why this region may not settle as other re- 
gions have done, the pioneers constructing their own roads to 
it and through it. 

Those who have traversed the country know the reasons why 
such roads will not be made by individuals, and they are these: 
The northern lands are all densely timbered, and among the 
best of lands are frequent cedar swamps that cannot be passed 
without bridging by causeways. While there are public lands 
in open and prairie regions, to which the settler can drive his 
wagon without cutting a tree, he will not hew his way through 
a northern forest to find his land. Such tracts settle only by 
gradual encroachment around the borders. 

The only track now leading through the territory in question 
is the cattle trail cut out by Mr. Parker from the Forks of the 
Ontonagon to the Big Bull Falls of Wisconsin, which was 
made by the citizens of Ontonagon at an expense of 500 dol- 
lars, to drive stock from Wisconsin. 

A winter trail exists from the Anse to the Twin Falls of the 
Menominee, and thence by the White Rapids to the mouth of 
that river, on Green Bay. 

In summer, canoes may pass up the Wisconsin to its head, 
in Lake Vieux Desert, and thence by portages either into the 
Menominee River, the Ontonagon River, or the Wolf River. 

The future value of the country penetrated by a railway line 
from Lake Winnebago northerly to Lake Superior, will arise 
from its agricultural capacity, from its pine timber, and 
perhaps from mines of iron and copper. In the neighborhood 
of the Twin Falls, and all the way easterly and north-easterly 
to Carp River of Lake Superior, there are iron mountains in 
sufficient abundance, and the most beautiful marbles. 

In Wisconsin, west of the Menominee, the geological forma- 
tions' are similar, and it is highly probable that they carry iron 



in the shape of magnetic ores, in the same manner as on the 
east. 

The copper veins of the range about the heads of the Me- 
nominee and Ontonagon have not been tested, nor very 
thoroughly explored, but are known to exist. 

For the speedy sale of lands in that quarter, provided a com- 
munication was opened, and for the benefit of the prairie region 
back from the Lake in Wisconsin, the lumber thus brought 
into play, and which is now inaccessible, seems to be the most 
prominent object. 

The destruction and the rapid consumption of pine timber 
leads all reflecting minds to consider where the future supply is 
to be had. In the State of Maine, where that in the vicinity 
of streams is exhausted, they have already resorted to railroads 
to open new regions, in the same manner that this road would 
for Wisconsin. 

I now give you some details relating to the length, bearing, 
and facilities for constructing such a road in the country. 

The summit land, or level about Lake Yieux Desert, is not 
far from 1100 feet above Lake Superior. 

The absolute elevation of Lakes Michigan and Superior above 
the ocean, is not yet well determined, nor therefore their rela- 
tive levels to each other. 

The authorities for Lake Michigan vary from 573 to 578 feet, 
and for Lake Superior from 599 to 627 ; but this is of little con- 
sequence in a railway grade of 250 miles in length. There are 
no impracticable mountain ranges to pass, although there are 
broken hills on the waters of the Ontonagon, above the Forks, 
as well as on the Wolf River, above* the Falls. Around the 
heads of these rivers, however, the hills disappear, and the 
summit country is flat, with swamps and lakes. 

Lake Winnebago is fixed at 165 feet above Lake Michigan, 
by the State engineers. I estimate Lake Shawanoe to be 100 
feet above Lake Winnebago, and consequently the rise to a 
summit of 1000 to 1200 feet above Lake Superior, would be 
from 700 to 900 feet in a distance of 90 to 100 miles. 

From the summit descending northward to the Forks of the 
Ontonagon, 11 mile3, the grade would be about 800 feet, or 
say 17 feet per mile. 



By the Land Office maps, constructed from the public sur- 
veys, the bearing of Lake Yieux Desert from Lake Shawanoe 
is N. 13° W., distance 96 miles. The mouth of the Ontona- 
gon is on the same course, distance 146 miles. From the Lake 
Yieux Desert to the Forks of the Ontonagon is 44 mileB ; 
thence to Portage Lake, along the mineral range, 38 miles ; 
thence to Copper Harbor, passing the Cliff, North American, 
North Western, N. West, Bluff, and other mines, 45 miles. 
From Lake Shawanoe to the Anse Bay is 135 miles, course due 
north. From the Anse to Portage Lake, 20 miles. From the 
Anse to the Forks of the Ontonagon, 30 miles. 

By these figures, without allowing for the increased distances 
on a railway route making Lake Shawanoe a common point, 
we have to the Forks of Ontonagon, by way of the mouth of 
the Brule and the Anse, 165 miles. By way of Lake Yieux 
Desert, 140 miles. To Copper Harbor, by way of Lake Yieux 
Desert, the Forks of Ontonagon, and Portage Lake, 223 miles. 
By way of the Anse and Portage Lake, 200 miles. To all 
these add 75 miles from Fond du Lac to Lake Shawanoe, and 
we get the entire map length of the routes that may be con- 
structed to reach Lake Superior, at the most important points. 

The most westerly route would open the largest body of land, 
and give an outlet to the greatest amount of timber. 

By the system of linear and geological survey devised by Dr. 
Houghton, the topographical features of a country are defined 
near enough to afford general estimates for railway and canal 
routes. He did not live to carry out this plan in full, and the 
public is not yet aware of its value. 

The elevations determined by his directions with the barom- 
eter, and those of Capt. Cram, on the boundary line, give ap- 
proximations to a profile of the country. 

I give the elevations of several points and summits, partly 
from estimates and recollection, and partly from the Reports. 



■ Lake ftfi< 

Lake Winnebago --- 165 foot. 

Lake Shawanoe, --(estimated) 265 " 

Lake Vieux Desert " 1000 to 1100 " 

Mouth of the Brulo " 500 to 600 " 

Forks of Ontonagon M 250 to 800 " 

Heads of Brule River - " to 1100 " 

Lake Superior, t{ 40 " 

Portage Lake. _. " 40 " 

Summit of Torch & Gratiot luv's, H ) - ; 

Forks ( >f Eagle R i ver 340 * * 

Summit between Eagle River and Little Mont- 
real 1 640 " 

Little Montreal, near the Bluff Mine.- I " 

Lake Manganese 176 " 

Copper Harbor - _-. 40 " 

Compared with the routes now in operation across the Alle- 
gheny mountains, as to grade and expense, the lines I have in- 
dicated to reach Lake Superior are by tar the most feasible. 
On the other hand, the price of labor and subsistence will be 
greater at the North than in the old States. 

I should suggest to those having in cha s ion of 

stitution of eedar piles instead of an earth 
le, for a large portion of the route. The eedar is easily had, 
and is durable. In swampy grounds, where the rill of a road 
bed would be costly, it stands directly in the track in abundance; 
and a road laid on piles would accumulate less snow and dust 
than it would on . v.de. 

In regard to the future cons e of the lands and minerals 

near the west end of the Lake, and also in n :o the proba- 

ble commun as I g ion, I must be brief. 

- - .. Pewabic range, west of the Mont- 

real 1L\ but as the wa re St. G \. They are seen 

in minor trap uplifts between the Pewabie and the eoast on 
the Liver, the Poplar. Aminicon, and the Left-hand Riv- 

ers. Whether they can be profitably worked, remains to be 
proven. 

•.sequenee. which the In 

sts I ;re in qua] - sueh 
that the manufacture of centuries would make no impression 
•l the supply. It occupies the ra r 18 or 20 mi 



11 

where it intercepts the various branches of Had or Mauvaise 
River. 

In this neighborhood, and around the mouth of St. Louis 
River, are large tracts of level red clay soil, that is capable of 
producing wheat, 

On the waters of Snake and Kettle Rivers, of the St. Croix, 
of the Rum River of Mississippi, Crow-wing River, Sauk 
River, St. Peters River, and the Red River of the North, are 
extensive bodies of land also calculated to produce wheat. 

As the head of Lake Superior is no farther by water from 
New York than Chicago is, I predict for this region a valuable 
trade in flour at some future time, perhaps not very remote. 
Its communication by land, if ever effected, would naturally 
be from the Mississippi to Fond du Lac of Lake Superior, thence 
to the head of Chegoimegon Bay, and through the 1 'ewabic range 
at some of the gaps of Bad River. Thence easterly to Lake 
Vieux Desert, Lake Shawanoe and Lake Winnebago, to Mil- 
waukee and Chicago. 

The distance from Lake Vieux Desert to the iron mountains 
of Bad River is about 80 miles. 

A comprehensive plan for placing the Lake Superior and 
Upper Mississippi country in its proper relations to the prairie 
region on the south, would embrace such communications. 

Among the projects of the day, it is not easy to distinguish 
between the practical and the visionary, but it is more than 
probable that the route which Governor Stevens is now ex- 
ploring, from the Falls of St. Anthony by the heads of the 
Missouri to the Pacific, in a high latitude, will prove the best 
of all lines for a railway, and thus bring into play the routes I 
have adverted to. 

Of the value of the copper-bearing range in Michigan, east 
of the Montreal River to Point Keweena, it is not necessary 
that I should add anything, or make any estimate of the trade 
that it will give rise to. I cannot give the distance from Chi- 
cago to Lake Winnebago, but by map it is not far from 150 
miles. From Chicago to the Forks of the Ontonagon would then 
be by way of Lake Vieux Desert, 365 miles ; to Copper Har- 
bor, 448 miles. About iO mile ! should be added for a crooked 



12 

line, making, say 500 miles' of road on the most circuitous, 
but probably the best route. 

You will thus perceive that if but one railway can be provi- 
ded to reach Lake Superior, and the object is to find the route 
which comprises the greatest number of advantages and facili- 
ties, the Lake Winnebago, Lake Shawanoe, and Lake Yieux De- 
sert line is most worthy of attention. 

It connects the settlements on Lake Superior with those in 
Wisconsin, at the nearest and shortest space between settle- 
ments, leaving the least unbroken territory to overcome. 

It passes no range of mountains or other physical obstacles 
that present any serious difficulties. 

The grazing and wheat regions of Wisconsin are brought 
into closest relations with the consuming regions of the mines. 

For return freight and business, there will be, besides pas- 
sengers and metals, large quantities of pine lumber for the use 
of the prairie lands. 

The public lands along the route from Lake Shawanoe to 
either the Anse or the Forks of the Ontonagon, are untouched, 
and may be appropriated without interference with private en- 
tries. Those lands are, in their present isolated and unapproach- 
able condition, virtuully out of market and incapable of sale. 

The government, as a shrewd proprietor, would make money 
by giving away half of them on condition of settlement. There 
is scarcely to be found so large a body of so valuable land that 
is rendered useless for long years to come, by its remoteness 
from water transportation. 

The distance to be provided for is from Oshkosh north. From 
thence to the extremity of Point Keweena, by Lakes Shawa- 
noe and Yieux Desert, and thence by the Forks of Ontonagon 
and Portage Lake, to Copper Harbor, cannot exceed 330 miles. 
There are twenty millions of acres of lands, the sales of which 
would be quickened by its construction. 

These observations are thrown together liastily, and without 
access to some official reports that are necessary to obtain 
accuracy of levels and distances, but they may be of service to 
the cause, incomplete as they are. 

Yours very respectfully, 

CHAS. WHITTLESEY- 



Lb D '10 



